www.patchesweaver.com
category: Travel
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So Otto and his brother Erick came for a long weekend, which was also conveniently during the time of my birthday.  Turned the big two five this year.

I took a taxi to the airport to meet Otto and Erick at the airport.  Their flight was supposed to land at 11:15, but I didn`t see any sign  of them until a little before 12.  The airport security were trying to fine Otto and Erick $100 for issues with their luggage.  They had brought a bunch of Polo shirts to their family in GT.  Unfortunately they had left the tags on the shirts, so security thought that they were bringing them into the country to sell them.  Erick is a financeer, so they had decided to start something without realizing what they were getting into.  Erick had the guard get his superior and asked for Guatemala`s tax code.  They slowly went through each article within the bags and added up the estimated value, it ended up being less than the taxable amount and they ended up getting through without having to pay anything.

After the deal at the airport, we headed over to Marty and Carlos`s to have some Caldo.  Since we were planning on heading to El Salvador for the weekend, we were also supposed to pick up my passport.  We forgot that part.

For the big birthday dinner we ended up going to a Sushi place which somebody on an online restaurant review had referred to as “The best sushi in Latin America”.  After dinner we went to Quatro Grados Norte for some drinks.

"Best sushi in Latin America" - which actually ended up being probably pretty close to the truth.  The rolls on the right are hot rolls... which ended up being incredible

"Best sushi in Latin America" - which probably ended up being pretty close to the truth. The rolls on the right are hot rolls... incredible

The following morning we had an incredible breakfast at our hotel the Westin Camino Real.  The Camino Real is a serious hotel.  We ended up sharing it with 4 floors of Taiwanese people… including the president.  Since Sabrina is crazy about Taiwan I figured she`d be crazy about the fact that we stayed with her president.  Here`s the gchat showing how excited she was:

4:47 PM me: i just stayed in the same hotel as the taiwanese president…
he`s in guatemala right now
SabrinaGmail: really?
me: WOOO
SabrinaGmail: i didn’t even know
me: yep
SabrinaGmail: ma
his last name is ma
he’s a loser
did you went over to tell him that?
4:48 PM tell him stop to be a loser
and taiwan is not part of china

Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to tell off the Taiwanese president.  We at least had a chance to see his motorcade drive by…

The next morning we took off to El Salvador with Rodalfo and his friend Christian.  We realized that we had totally forgotten my passport at Marty`s, so we had to drive around a bit to go through the steps of getting my passport.  This put us a bit behind schedule, but we made up for it by averaging twice the speed limit on the way there.

We were very lucky that we had gone to get my passport.  When we arrived at the boarder we had to go through an extremely thorough security check.  This involved (1) waiting behind a pickup for a few moments, (2) asking if there was a line, realizing there was not and then driving around the parked truck, (3) slowly driving past the boarder patrol guard, (4) recieving a wave from the guard saying that it was ok to continue on.  I honestly don`t even remember if we had to show them the passports or not.  It all happened so fast that it was basically like, “wait, was that it?”.   I was hoping for a stamp in my passport but unfortunately there was no stamp to be had.

Shortly after crossing the boarder

Benvenidos a El Salvador. View after shortly after crossing the boarder.

In El Salvador we stayed at a hotel called “The Decameron”.  Erick had gone there about a month or so before with his cousin Milton and his friend.  It is an all inclusive with free food, a discoteca, shows/actividades, free dance classes, free dentist-cup-sized drinks (or a $10 upgrade to a coffee mug sized cup) and plenty of pool action and beach time.   The Decameron was awesome in all respects except for the food.  I was not very phased by this aspect as I still do not have much of an appetite and was therefore on a mostly liquid diet.  Since I have not yet recieved professional advice (as well as medication) in regard to my stomach condition, it seemed only logical that alcohol would be the best way to kill off whatever is hanging out in my digestive tract.

Erick was adament about not dabbling with the Decameron`s sub-par food.  We ended up skipping out on the "Pastatorium" all together and instead brought a box of Pollo Campero for dinner.

Erick was adament about not dabbling with the Decameron`s sub-par food. We ended up mosty skipping out on the "Pastatorium" and instead brought a box of Pollo Campero for dinner. We ended up not easily finishing (party due to the fact of my minimal participation), so Rodalfo suggested selling the remaining few pieces.

After dinner we checked out the show, which was basically lip-syncing and dancing.  It actually ended up being very good.  We then went to the club and danced it up.  There was a very mixed crowd including a very unique mañoso who gave up asking people to dance and instead astounded people with the originality of his pasos mañosos .  We also held our own on the dance floor y solo falté un pocitito.  Lento pero seguro.  After the club shut down we then made our way back to the beach and proceeded to smoke cigars.

Sunset Beach.

Sunset Beach.

Whimsical Aldo Rossi-esque style of the Decameron

Whimsical Aldo Rossi-esque style of the Decameron

Seawater pool.  During high tide it became submerged and basically invisible.

Seawater pool. During high tide it became submerged and basically invisible.

Time on la playa

Time on la playa

Out of complete curiosity, we ended up inquiring about the costs of membership opportunities at the Decameron.  To our suprise, it is actually quite cheap for what you get.  We then came to the conclusion that Plan B would be to buy a yearly membership ($6000) and LIVE at the Decameron.    We still need to work out the details, but there is probably the possiblility of recieving a grant for a book deal in order to cover the cost.

Rodolfo, Christian, Otto, Erick, and myself.  Otto exhibiting clear signs of catching on to the long-term Decameron lifestlye.

Rodolfo, Christian, Otto, Erick, and myself. Otto already exhibiting clear signs of catching on to the long-term Decameron lifestlye.

We left the Decameron the following day around 3:00 and headed to get some ceviche.  After driving for a while, we became impatient and decided to pull into a random hotel on the side of the road.  It ended up being awesome and totally worth going to.

Natural pool that ended up blowing away the Decameron`s salt water wave pool.

Natural pool that ended up blowing away the Decameron`s salt water wave pool.

ANGRY fish for lunch.  I ended up not eating this because Rodalfo inspected it (and owning a seaside restaurant) decided that it was not quite fresh.  It`s probably better... one less angry thing in my stomach.

ANGRY fish for lunch. I ended up not eating this because Rodalfo inspected it (and owning a seaside restaurant) decided that it was not quite fresh. It`s probably better... one less angry thing in my stomach. The second one ended up being awesome but WAY too big.

The service at the hotel was impecible and no time was spared in delivering the food.  The waiters held nothing back and were running back and forth the whole time.  This including running across wet pool tiles.  This hotel was awesome, it was here that we slowly realized that we really liked El Salvador.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NWlQP7Fzsg[/youtube]

Check back for updates to this post.  I`ll be getting more photos from Otto and Erick…

end

category: Travel
tags:

Early last week, a lawyer who was working on a case that was investingating the murder of 2 people was himself murdered.    It is not an uncommon occurance here that cases are basically made off limits, but this situation seems to be a bit different.  In a video that he made just before he was murdered, the lawyer accused the president of being responsible for his death.  This is obviously a heavy accusation and is being taken completely seriously.  Things are still unraveling, but there have been many protests and public announcements that have taken place in the capital.

http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2009/05/12/world/AP-LT-Guatemala-Lawyer-Killed.html?_r=1&ref=americas

category: Travel
tags:

So happy Mother`s day.  In typical Antigua fashion, there were ton`s of firecrackers and even a procession to boot.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vspgEGCAkl0[/youtube]

category: Travel
tags: ,

This past Tuesday, Stella, Karla, Karla`s friend Luzbin, and I went to Monterico.  It`s a beach on the Pacific side of Guatemala.

beach side hotels/whatnot

beachside hotels/whatnot

The beaches in Guatemala are a bit different, they have volcanic black sand…  and the waves are ridiculous.  I went in to swim for a bit.  On about the fourth wave or so, for about 2 seconds I literally thought I was going to drown.  Later that day we saw somebody get rescued by a lifeguard.  Lost his bathing suit in the process, but he ended up being ok.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOu5MHUzpb4[/youtube]

Note: video does not do justice to size of waves or Brian`s wicked tan line.

Hammock time with Gallo in hand.  Buenisimo.

Hammock time with Gallo in hand. Buenisimo.

On the way back, the bus was full of borachos.  There was dancing, singing, yelling… a bit of everything.  At one point on the way home, the bus driver pulled over next to a large jocote tree next to somebody`s house.  About 10 people then filed out of the bus and began picking/stealing jocotes off of the tree.

Two jocote theifs.  I have chosen to post a blurry photo to protect their identity

Two jocote marigñon (cashew fruit) thieves. Photo has been blurred to protect their identity.

Everybody then filed back into the bus with bags full of jocotes.  We then continued home.

category: Travel
tags:

This Saturday Felix from work invited me to his coffee farm(s).  Felix is part of a Farmers Co-op that does organic and sustainable farming of coffee and other crops. 

Felix and his son Erich

Felix and his son Erich

Felix explaining the germination process.  He has been farming for many years and is now experimenting with different crops.  He is experimenting with germinating a different species of coffee as well as a type of tree that produces wood for furniture.

Felix explaining the germination process. He has been farming for many years and is now experimenting with different crops. He is experimenting with germinating a different species of coffee as well as a type of tree that produces wood for furniture.

 Felix then explained to me that he owns 4 small plots of land for growing his coffee.  It is really hard (and expensive) to get big continuous plots of land, so as a small local farmer, he has had to begin by working with multiple small plots.

We then drove to one of Felix`s plots of land.  The road started to get pretty hairy.  We left the truck behind and kept going...

We then drove to one of Felix`s plots of land. Even in four wheel drive, the truck wasn`t making it the whole way. We left the truck behind and kept going. Not too bad of a walk by foot. Add loads of 100 lb bags of coffee and it gets a bit tougher...

Coffee

Coffee (Avacado tree in back - heavily pruned to let light down to the coffee)

What`s the difference between the good stuff and the bad stuff?

There`s such a huge price difference between different grades of coffee. What`s the difference between the good stuff and the bad stuff?

The good stuff and the bad stuff

The good stuff and the bad stuff

A part of Felix`s sustainable way of growing is to grow other types of crops.  These other crops are usually planted in the spaces between his coffee.  This is a macadamia nut tree.  He also grows avacados, beans, a plant used to make biodiesel, and peaches.

A part of Felix`s sustainable way of growing is to grow other types of crops. These other crops are usually planted in the spaces between his coffee. This is a macadamia nut tree. He also grows avacados, beans, a plant used to make biodiesel, and peaches.

Walking back to the truck.  Time to go to the next plot of land...

Walking back to the truck. Time to go to the next plot of land...

Felix grabbing a peach.  We eat them before they are totally ripe.  This isn`t uncommon.  Alot of the fruit is stolen of the trees.

Felix grabbing a peach. We eat them before they are totally ripe. This isn`t uncommon. Alot of the fruit is stolen off of the trees.

Coffee pulps used to fertilize around the plants

Coffee pulps used to fertilize around the plants

Coffee drying patio at Felix`s house.  High (export) grade coffee in front, low (market) grade in back.  He leaves it out to dry for about a week.

Coffee drying patio at Felix`s house. High (export) grade coffee in front, low (market) grade in back. He leaves it out to dry for about a week.

High grade coffee.  Still has the skin/husk on it.  It will then be sent through a machine to remove the husk and then roasted.

High grade coffee. Still has the skin/husk on it. It will then be sent through a machine to remove the husk and then roasted.

Go to the Photo`s section (Month 4) for more photos.

For more info (or to buy Felix`s coffee): http://www.asgreenasitgets.org/felix.html

I went with Marty and Carlos to Escipulas this weekend for a tour.  Escipulas is in the South-East corner of Guatemala and is a pilgrimage site for most of Central America.  There is a statue of Christ called “Cristo Negro” (Black Christ) that is said to have miraculous healing powers for people of faith.  This is taken very seriously.  Though I did not see it, there are people that enter into the church on their knees, make their way up to Christo Negro to pray, and then exit on their sore bloody knees. 

The group.  Its hard to see in this photo, but there were 52 of us.

The group. Its hard to see in this photo, but there were 52 of us.

 [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtqvDn8hYhU[/youtube]

Año Santo.  250th Anniversary of the church.  This main entry door is never completely opened.  For this year alone it has been opened completely.  Pope Benedict has said that to walk through this door is a very holy act.

Año Santo. 250th Anniversary of the church. This main entry door is never completely opened. For this year alone it has been opened completely. Pope Benedict has said that to walk through this door is a very holy act.

We had just been to Escipulas two weeks ago during Semana Santa when my mother was here (had decided last minute to go there instead of Chemuc Shampey because of whether conditions).  It was good to go again to see it in a different way.   We went to a handful of services.  One was in a small chapel that is usually never open to the public, and another was during the main service in an elevated area that is very close to the Cristo Negro. 

Escipulas

Escipulas

People outside.  This photo doesn´t do justice to the amount of people that are are actually there on a daily basis.  It is packed.

People outside. This photo doesn´t do justice to the amount of people that are are actually there on a daily basis. It is packed.

I will load more pics of Escipulas once I have them available…

The town that the church is in is completely dependent on the existance of the church.  Without the church, I´m pretty sure there´d be no town.  Everybody is selling religious paraphanilia along with everything else that usually makes up a Guatlemalan mercado.   We were walking around and met this guy:

Fortune telling parakites.

Master of the fortune telling paraquets

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdZxfNKvq6g[/youtube]start 

So the paraquet decided to pick three papelitos of advice for me, out of which I chose the yellow one.  I have to admit, I still do not exactly understand the elaborate prophecy that has been fortold.  Marty helped me clear it up a bit though and it is something along the lines of the fact that I will soon be recieving news that will not be good.  Fortunately, it also said that the news will not be bad either… just news.

So while climbing up the windy stretch of highway on the way home, the bus driver started to slow down and then pull over to the side of the road. 

Hmm

Hmm

Luckily, the bus driver was basically a mechanic too.  After about 15 minutes or so, he was able to fix the bus and we continued on.  We then drove for about 5 – 10 minutes more and pulled over again.  Repeat.  Then drove a bit more and then broke down again.  After the 3rd breakdown, people decided that we´d better get another bus.  We ended up getting many “microbuses” to drive us to the hotel we were eating at for lunch. 

Breakdown

Breakdown

Filing into the microbus

Filing into the microbus

Because it was a spur of the moment thing, our microbus driver didn´t have his transit papers.  We were then given a “free tour” through Chikimulas to retrieve the papers before going to the hotel. 

We then ate lunch and then hung out next to the pool for about 1.5 hours.  When the bus arrived, the bus driver was completely covered in grease but said that the bus was ready to go.  We then continued back to Guatemala city breakdown-free.  Luckily, this had not been at night, that would have been a completely different situation…

categories: Travel, Visitors
tags:

So Otto´s brother Erick came to visit for the weekend.  I hung out with him Friday night before I left for Escipulas with Marty and Carlos Saturday morning. 

I don´t have any photos of this night.  We basically just hung out, smoked cubans, and drank Johnny Walker black label.   Good times.  Went to bed at 2am and got up at 5am to make the bus to Escipulas…

category: Travel
tags:

Otto`s great aunt Rosita and her husbuand Marco Tulio drove us around Guatemala city the day before my mother left.  They took us to quite a few places, including the Red Cross and a Military Hospital.  Rosita also made us an amazing lunch at her house. 

Rosita and Marco Tulio are 83 and 85 respectively and yet somehow manage to volunteer everyday at what are basically nursing homes.  One place they work is in a department of the Centro Medico Militar, one of Guatemala`s miliary hospitals. 

Marco Tulio, Rosita, My Mom, and Eugenia

Marco Tulio, Rosita, my Mom, and Eugenia

Eugenia, the director, gave us a very comprehensive tour of the facilities.   The facility holds 32 seniors and we met the majority of them.  Eugenia enjoyed showing us around the hospital and was interested to hear my mother`s opinion about the services they had to offer.   My mom suggested the use of therapy dogs and also mentioned the service the the Red Cross provides to military personnel.  She was very interested to hear this news. 

We then went to the Red Cross in Zone 1 of Guatemala City.  We came after hours and turned out to be really lucky because we caught the director right between meetings.  He turned out to be not only be the Director of that branch, but the National Director of the Red Cross of Guatemala.  We had a chance to speak with him for about 20 minutes.  He was in a bit of a rush, so he spoke very quickly, making it a bit difficult for the official diplomatic translator (me) to keep up… but we managed. 

 

Cruz Roja

Cruz Roja

He was very nice and we left with bags and pins as gifts from the Guatemalan Red Cross.

categories: Fiestas, Travel, Visitors
tags:

So I am going to update the “Semana Santa” page after Semana Santa is over.   There is so much that needs to be uploaded.  Things are so crazy here that we haven`t found the time to sit down and update the blog. 

Check the “photo” page to see other recent photos..

Adding to the cloud of incense that has filled the streets of Antigua during the entire week.

Adding to the cloud of incense that has filled the streets of Antigua during the entire week.

Making the alfombra

It aint easy making an alfombra. Since there are so many activities/processions during this week, these people are running on zero sleep. Some people make 4 or 5 over 2 or so days.

 

Niño Alfombra

Niño Alfombra

"So who made this?".  "Me and my little cousin".  This kid is a friggin`pro Alfombra maker...

"So who made this?" I ask. "Me and my little cousin"... This kid is a friggin`pro Alfombra maker...

Procession alfombra.  Coke bottles and eggs.  If you look closely they all have penciled in faces.

Procession alfombra. Coke bottles and eggs. If you look closely they all have penciled in faces.

Cucuruchus.  These are the carriers of the floats.  This one had over 100...  All volunteers.  If they are not carrying they are walking with the procession.  Try walking for 18 hours straight.

Cucuruchus. These are the carriers of the floats. This one had over 100... All volunteers. If they are not carrying they are walking with the procession. Try walking for 18 hours straight.

So if walking for 18 hours isn`t enough, try doing it in high heels (on cobblestone streets).  The women see this as a form of penance.

So if walking for 18 hours isn`t enough, try doing it in high heels (on cobblestone streets). The women see this as a form of penance.

 

Cervesa and tortillas after some serious walking.

Cervesa and tortillas after some serious walking.

Here it is Otto, do you remember this lady?  Pupuseria... magical hole in the wall restaurant.  Pupusas are fat tortillas filled with cheese and whatever else (mushrooms, frijoles, whatever kind of meat, etc).  4 small pupusas, 1 large (14"), 2 bowls of chiles (which we finished), and 2 cervesas... all for about $6 each.

Here it is Otto, do you remember this lady? Pupuseria... magical hole in the wall restaurant. Pupusas are basically fat tortillas filled with cheese and whatever else (mushrooms, frijoles, whatever kind of meat, etc). 4 small pupusas, 1 large pupusa (14"), 2 bowls of chiles (which we finished), and 2 cervesas... all for about $6 each.

Random old couple photo.

Random old couple photo.

T-shirt

T-shirt

check back for updates to this post…

So you´ll have to bear with me here, didn´t have time to explain.  Check back for updates…

Arriving to Atitlan

Arriving to Lago Atitlan

Wow

God

We chartered a boat ($12 a head) to see some of the pueblos that surround Lago Atitlan.  There are 12 pueblos, and each one of them is named after one of the 12 apostles.

It was actually not the best day to go to the lake, it was cloudy and the water was choppy.  However, Pedro was not at all phased by the conditions and we flew across the lake (faster than Marty would have liked).

Picture with the captain

Picture with Captain Pedro

Suiting up

Suiting up to head to Santiago Atitlan

Marty, Mom, and Carlos in Front of Iglesia Parroquial Santiago Apostal (built in 1547)

Marty, Mom, and Carlos in Front of Iglesia Parroquial Santiago Apostal (built in 1547)

We got a tuc tuc (tiny toy-like taxi) and went to the center of Santiago.  After some persuasion by the tuc tuc driver we then decided to do one of the tours that he was offering.  We chose to go around town and to visit Maximon, a god/saint that some of the indigineous people of the area worship.

Visit to Maximon, indiginous god

Visit to Maximón, indiginous god. Liquor and cigars...

fitting in

Fitting in

After the lake we headed to Xela, Guatemala´s second largest city.  It is about a two hour drive from the lake on roads that are undergoing serious construction.  We were told that it is generally considered “The Athens of Central America”.

Pueblo on the outskirts of Xela

Pueblo on the outskirts of Xela

Muchos pollos

Muchos pollos

Mercado

Mercado - look at the niña

Radishes

Radishes

Rock n´ Roll electric altar

Rock n´ Roll electric altar

Centro de Xela

Centro de Xela

Double Facade.  Original church in front, new church in back.

Xela´s Cathedral´s Double Facade. Original church in front, new church in back.

Local Mariachi´s

Local Mariachi´s

Flute

Flute

Our tour bus waiting in front of the cathedral

Our tour bus waiting in front of the cathedral

Xela

Xela

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFOD-1ojol8[/youtube]

Ridiculous end to our tour.  Couldn´t have been more perfect.

After the tour we went into the Cathedral.  Just so happened to be a wedding in progress...

After the tour we went into the Cathedral. Just so happened to be a wedding in progress...

Red light district.  In Xela, red lights on Saturdays means Paches.

Red light district. In Xela, red lights on Saturdays means Paches.

Paches

Paches

Leaving Xela

Leaving Xela

Sunday morning we went to a mass for Tita (Marty´s sister) and Paco.  They have been married for 50 years.  Otto´s family took up about the back quarter of a decent sized church.  Not everybody made it into this photo.

Family photo after the Mass.

Family photo after the Mass.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dnr6jN7q2Tg[/youtube]

Tita and Paco´s 50th Anniversary party

Tub of salad and barrel of rice...

Tub of salad and barrel of rice...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lPEsItL-MQ[/youtube]

Dancing it up

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVOcECA2ILw[/youtube]